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Which Is the Best First Rental?


A rookie real estate investor is wondering what he should do for his first rental property. Multifamily rentals can help you scale faster and have more cash flow, but single-family rentals mean fewer tenants (and fewer headaches) with less management. Dave and Henry have invested in both and have a clear answer for which is the winner.

We’re back answering your questions from the BiggerPockets Forums. First, single-family vs. multifamily—if you’re starting in real estate right now, there’s one clear choice. Next, a young landlord just inherited a tenant who’s paying 50% below-market rent. Should he raise the rent and risk losing a 12-year tenant, or follow a much more “reasonable” strategy to get them to stay and pay a fairer price?

BRRRRing vs. house-flipping: let’s say you have $100,000 ready to invest, which option gives you a higher return? BRRRRing (buy, rehab, rent, refinance, repeat) means you’ll have a long-term rental after the rehab, but is a flip worth it for the instant payout? And finally, we do the thing you never expected BiggerPockets to do…we tell someone not to house hack (but here’s why).

Henry:
Should your next investment be a single family home or a multifamily property? It’s a critical question. You want to scale a portfolio and progress toward financial freedom as quickly as possible, but taking on the wrong type of property could leave you overwhelmed and slow down your progress in the long run. The good news, this choice does not need to leave you paralyzed. Today we’re sharing a simple framework to help you pick the right type of property for you. The answer isn’t the same for everyone, but by the end of this episode, you’ll know how to think through big decisions of whether single family or multifamily is right for your experience level, financial situation or investing strategy. Plus we’ll tackle how to balance getting your rents close to fair market value without forcing unnecessary tenant turnovers where new investors should take on burrs or flips and so much more. What’s up, friends? I’m Henry Washington here, the co-host of the BiggerPockets podcast and I am here along with Dave Meyer. Dave, you’re looking a little bundled. Are you wondering why I am dressed like Macklemore right now? Is there something going on at the thrift shop we need to know about?

Dave:
My heat went out two days ago over the weekend on Saturday morning I woke up and my house was like 40 degrees and they actually just left my house and fixed the furnace, but it’s still freezing in here. It’s like literally 42 degrees, but the show’s got to go on, man, so I’m just here dressed in full winter gear.

Henry:
Well, today we’re giving people what they want. We’re answering questions you the audience asked us on the BiggerPockets forums, so let’s jump into it. The first question is from an investor named Christopher and he said, I’m a new investor based in California looking to start my portfolio out of state. My target is the 80,000 to $125,000 range in landlord friendly markets with steady job growth. I’m most interested in burr and buy and hold rentals, and I’m deciding between starting with a single family or a small multifamily. He goes on to say, here’s where I’m stuck. Single family seems easier to manage, less intimidating, but the cashflow might be a little less, whereas Multifamilies could bring stronger cashflow and efficiencies of scale, but I’ve heard they could be tougher to finance and tenant issues could hit harder if I don’t have a solid team yet. So which one should you start with and what do you think the best path is for someone investing out of state for the first time?

Dave:
Alright, I’ll take this one. First off, Christopher, good question and I think a great approach. If you’re based in California, super expensive, you want buy and hold or burrs, they’re harder to find in California, so an out of state is a great option for you. I’m going to start with actually the second question because basically what you said is, which is better? Small multifamily or single family, all things being equal. I don’t know how you feel about this, Henry, but I personally think small multifamily is just the best asset class and I don’t actually think it’s really all that different from a management perspective. You still got one roof, you got one tax bill, you do have multiple tenants, but I think what you’ll learn as almost every investor does over the course of their career is it’s really not that hard once you place tenants.
It’s just reacting and trying to do some repairs proactively. But I personally just think small multi-families are better. I would challenge you, Christopher, on your question saying that you think that they’re harder to finance small multifamilies and that tenant issues could hit harder. I think they’re very similar to finance. Even if you are out of state, not owner occupying, you can get very similar types of loans for small multifamily, anything, four units or fewer is considered a residential mortgage and so you’re still going to have pretty favorable financing. Some you can put five or 10% down so you still have that option. The thing that I would challenge about, yeah, if all of your tenants decide to up and leave at once, that will be an issue or if they all complain at once, that can be an issue, but I actually think that having a small multifamily mitigates risk because if you have a vacancy in one unit, it’s not all of your income for that entire property.
When you buy a single family home, if you can’t find a tenant for two months, you’re losing one six of your entire revenue for the whole year. Whereas if you have two months of vacancy in one of four units, maybe you’re only losing one and a half percent of your revenue for the whole year. So I actually think it helps you mitigate risk, which I really like. That’s just on principle, but I will say buying a multifamily for 80 to 1 25 is probably not realistic in a decent market. I think if you’re looking for a place with job growth, you’re going to be really hard pressed to find a duplex. I invest in the Midwest. Maybe in Detroit you could probably find a duplex for that range, but if I were you at that price point, I actually would focus on buying the best asset I could and not on whether it’s single family home or multifamily. The advice I gave earlier was all things being equal. If you could afford both, I’d say small multifamily, but it sounds like you might want to focus on single family because you’ll be able to get a high quality asset that’s not going to be a pain in your butt.

Henry:
Very well said. When you were sitting there explaining why you liked multifamily as an answer to this question, I started thinking through what are my favorite properties and some of my favorite properties are single families, but when I ask the question differently and say, what are my most profitable and or wealth building properties, I get the most cashflow and I’ve built the most equity in my small multifamilies and it’s not even close

Dave:
Really.

Henry:
Yeah, and so I think you’re right. Small multifamily in terms of financial benefit, cashflow and wealth building seem to be the best asset, but my favorite properties are some of my single families and that’s who cares about what your favorite is, but

Dave:
Why are they your favorite then? Just because you are proud of what you did to them and the

Henry:
Renovations proud of what I did to them. The locations that some of them are in just prime locations, just excellent properties.

Dave:
You get the warm and fuzzies with the single families. You flip a house, it turns out great. If family moves in, they’re happy with it. That’s nice. That’s a good experience. Multifamily, you don’t really get that as much. I agree with that, but I just think if you’re trying to build that long-term portfolio, it’s great, but I just think as a first time investor, the name of the game is don’t lose. You don’t need to win by a lot. You don’t need to hit a home run. The game is to hit a single,
And my fear is that if you take my original advice and say, oh, I’m going to buy a three unit or four unit at 1 25, there’s going to be something wrong with that. Your tenants are going to be sitting there like me with their hat and jacket on because their heat doesn’t work or their toilets don’t work or something like that. This is what you get when you buy assets that are not up to their highest to best use. So I would make it easy on yourself as an out-of-state investor and buy something that’s in good shape. That would be my number one criteria.

Henry:
The other caveat here is Christopher, I would focus some of your time on learning more ways to finance deals. There are so many tools in the tool belt in terms of financing properties, small multifamilies like I think you can get a small multifamily financed pretty easily, no sweat. And given the concerns that you’ve outlined here, I would say my answer to you would be definitely focus on small multifamily if you’re going to up that 80 to 120 5K range, but if not, then I think Dave is w right. Buying a quality single family asset will save you so much headache over going and buying a trash multifamily.

Dave:
Great question, Christopher. Thank you and good luck to you. We have a new question asking about inherited tenants from Nick in upstate New York, but before we answer that, we got to take a quick break. We’ll be right back.

Henry:
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Dave:
Welcome back to the BiggerPockets podcast. Henry and I are here answering your questions. By the way, if you want your question to answer, go to BiggerPockets forums, ask those questions, we pick them there, or you can always send Henry or I a message and we pick a lot of questions from there as well. Our next one though comes from Nick in upstate New York who says, I’m a 19-year-old real estate investor. Impressive getting this done. At 19 years old, I just closed on my first duplex last and I’m house hacking. The tenant I’m inheriting has been here for 12 years and is on a month to month lease. She pays $635 a month and comps show that the market rent is about 1200. Wow. She has been a fantastic tenant for the previous owners. Rent is always on time. She’s quiet and takes care of her unit. Well, I have no problem with her paying slightly under market rent in hopes of retaining a great tenant, but I know it is irresponsible as a business owner to sell myself short. My other hesitation is that the previous owners are very good family friends. They started renting to her 12 years ago for 6 0 5 and just last summer increase it to 6 35. How would you handle a rent increase, Henry, what do you think?

Henry:
I love this question first of all, and second of all, 19 years old investing in real estate on the forms, asking these questions

Dave:
Crushing,

Henry:
Man, what a headstart you had. I wish I was as smart as you were when I was 19. Unfortunately, I was

Dave:
Not. I don’t think I could have typed this sentence when I was 19th,

Henry:
So kudos to you, Nick. I have had this situation a few times, maybe not as nuanced as this, where it’s family friends and it’s in a house hack, but I have inherited tenants paying very low rents and I’ve had to work with them to figure out how to get the rents where they need to be. And so first and foremost is you need to realize that you’re a human being dealing with human beings, and it sounds like based on the way you phrase phrased this question, you’re already in that mindset. And so what I have learned managing my own properties as a landlord and trying to do it in a way that both balances being human and being a business owner, most people will work with you if you give them the opportunity to. And so I’ve always tried to approach these situations where I’m just open and honest with people,

Dave:
Transparent,

Henry:
Transparent,
And I let them know. And so if this was a situation I was dealing with, I would go to the tenant and I would try to work out a situation where I could get them to stair step their rent up to where you want them to be and realizing that yes, I think you’re also in the right mindset of saying, Hey, I’m willing to take a little less than market rents because she’s a great tenant. That is the absolute right mindset because the first thing I tell people who ask me this question is, is the tenant a good tenant? Because if they’re not a good tenant, right, you need to focus on getting that out of there. Anyway, different question. Yeah, completely different process, but if they’re a good tenant, they take care of the place they pay on time, they don’t bother you. That’s perfect.
That’s ideal. The second key is getting them involved in the decision making process. So typically what I do is I pull comps for market rents and I sit down with them and I say, Hey, look, these are the comps that I have. This is what’s available for rent close by similar amenities, and I let them see for themselves, if you were to move and get something equal, this is the price point that it would be at. I understand that if you can’t pay that amount yet, but I do need to get you somewhere closer to market rents,
What would you feel comfortable paying as a rent for you to stay here and want to stay here? And a lot of the times they’ll tell me, look, I can’t do 12, but I could probably get to a thousand. Okay, cool. And then you have to decide, can I work with that number? And if the answer is yes, then you figure out, well, do I raise the rent next month or do you stair step, right? You’ll be able to tell through the course of the conversation and what they’re saying and how they’re saying it if things are reasonable. Because if you go to them and they say, look, I can’t pay anything over 6 35 period. I’m done. That’s it. That’s all I can do. Well then you can’t. It’s not reasonable. It’s not reasonable. You can’t reason with that person and you have to figure out, okay, what are my next steps Now that I know they won’t pay anything else, but when you’re showing them the comps and you’re trying to work with them and you’re involving them in the decision making process, I found that that typically always works well.
Then you can determine based on what they say, do I need to stair step? Because you can do things where you say, okay, if we agree in a thousand, how soon do you think it could get to a thousand? I ask them that. If they say, Hey, I could probably get there over the course of the next six months, if that works for me, then we just work on stair stepping. Then every month until we get there, their rent goes up a little bit until they’re at that thousand, maybe they say a year. If you can work with that, then you sta step ’em a year. You get to determine what works for you and your tenant, but involving them in the decision-making process and being transparent with them because they understand if you bought a property, you have a new mortgage, you’ve got things to pay. People know these things, but where I think landlords fail is they dictate things to their tenants versus including them in the decision making. Hundred percent. And so if you treat them like human beings, try to include them, and I’m not saying because you include them, you have to do what they ask. What I am saying is it makes an easier way for you to transition to something meaningful if you include them.

Dave:
I completely agree. I think that’s the absolute right approach. When I was self-managing, used to just give this speech to everyone who was one of my tenants, I would just be like, I want our entire basis of a relationship just to be reasonable. Just talk to me like you would ask a friend or a family member for a situation and I’ll do what I can and I’m going to be ask you to be reasonable about things, to let contractors in to be reasonable. And that has worked for me a hundred percent of the time. I’ve really never had an issue with that approach. I love what you said about involving them in the decision. People just generally it’s just human psychology. They want agency, they want control, and even though you’re not giving up actual control, giving people a say is really powerful and meaningful and will matter for your relationship going forward.
If you’ve listened to any of the episodes with Dion McNeely, he sort of patented the binder strategy. Have you heard that? Yes. What he calls the binder strategy, yeah, it’s the same idea, but he basically shows his tenants what rents are in the area. He pulls comps and prints them out and shows ’em to them. I think in a situation like this, you can, even if you wanted to show what rent was 12 years ago and how rents have changed over the last 12 years recently, if you want to, you don’t have to beat people over the head with data, but you could show how much taxes have gone up over the 12 years. There are real reasons why rent goes up. There has been enormous inflation across this country in the last 12 years and not changing rents is not a tenable option for real estate investors. Now, you don’t have to maximize and squeeze every drop out of a tenant. I highly recommend against doing that. I don’t think that’s the human thing to do, nor do I think it’s good business and I think that what Henry suggested is absolutely the right way to do it. I think the numbers you gave Henry are a perfect example. Would you personally take a thousand over 1200

Henry:
Absolutely for the right tenant?

Dave:
A hundred percent. If they move out and you have two months of vacancy, that’s pretty much a wash, right? So wouldn’t you rather keep a great tenant for a wash? It’s a no brainer. People get obsessed with their absolute people really, I think in general get obsessed about their rent numbers. When every experience investors know it’s your net cashflow that matters. The gross rent number doesn’t matter. If you have vacancy, it’s going to eat away at that and that crushes your deal every month of vacancy. Just keep this in mind. That’s 8% of revenue you lose. You lose two months, that’s 16% of your revenue. That’s enough to take almost any deal from cashflowing to negative. So just keep that stuff in mind.

Henry:
This is why we harp so hard about underwriting conservatively. I think what happens when people get in this situation is they underwrote buying that deal assuming they’re going to get the highest best rent number possible, and that’s how the numbers worked. And then you get into a situation like this and you realize, I’m not going to get that, or if I do, it’s going to take me a year before I can get there and I’m going to lose a lot of money in between then. So if you underwrite conservatively where you underwrite based on a lower rent number, the midtier of the rent price range, maybe even the low end of the rent range, and then you buy a deal that pencils, you have room to be able to take care of people like this.

Dave:
This is playing out for me all the time right now. I don’t know about you, but I’m not getting top market rents these days. When I have renewals, I’m usually able to keep rent, but there have been a couple units where I’ve had to lower rent, especially in Denver, if you guys follow the news, Denver is not doing great on rent growth, which is fine because I underwrote them this way. I have great property managers, I have great agents. They say, Hey, you’re going to get 1500, 1600 bucks. When I underwrite it, I say 1350. I’m like 10% below what they tell

Henry:
Me

Dave:
Because I want that flexibility. I don’t want to be strapped. I love being in a position where the property manager comes to me. Actually, I can only get 1450. I’m like, great. I underrated a 1350. This is excellent. I’m not worried about that. But when you set yourself up to only succeed if things go perfect, that is just a recipe for failure all the time. So to Nick, I think you know what to do. Hopefully this is a good answer and let us know what happens. I actually, I bet if you follow Henry’s advice, you’re going to find a mutually beneficial situation, which is what Henry and I are always talking about. Find mutual benefit. It’s the best thing for business, it’s the best thing for you. Alright, let’s move on to question number three, which comes from Morgan in Houston where we just were by the way, we ate at this great barbecue place. I just saw it made top 10 barbecue in the country.

Henry:
Best ribs I’ve had in a long time.

Dave:
Anyway, go to Pendleton’s Morgan in Houston wants to talk about real estate, not barbecue though. Morgan says, I want to get started with real estate in Texas and I’m going back and forth between the burr or a fix and flip. I have a good amount of cash, a hundred K or more to invest and I want to take a risk, but not a huge loss. Don’t we all? And I don’t want to rent a property or deal with tenants, but I am open to the idea if it is advantageous. What are your thoughts for a rookie?

Henry:
Yeah, this is an interesting one based on what was said in the question because it says, I don’t want to rent a property or deal with tenants, but I’m open to the idea if it’s advantageous. Well, first of all, being a landlord is very financially advantageous. I think that’s why a lot of us are here, and so I think that that’s the question you need to get comfortable with first because if you go into this not wanting to be a landlord and trying to get yourself sold on being a landlord by taking on your first property, I mean you’re going to get punched in the mouth. Being a landlord is tough. There’s a lot of problems that come with it and the benefits are more long term than short term. Getting into this business and expecting to buy a property that’s just going to go perfectly, you’re going to be making all this cashflow from day one. It doesn’t work like that. You have to have a long-term mindset. So if you aren’t mentally prepared to be a landlord, take on some short-term pain and get the gain in the longterm, then you probably shouldn’t be looking into burrs at all.

Dave:
Totally. I think you basically have a choice to make Morgan one you said, I want to take a risk, but not a huge loss. Those things aren’t a hundred percent compatible risk and reward work going to continuum. The higher the risk you take, the bigger the potential reward. So if you’re saying that you want to take a risk, you have to be open to the idea of loss. That is just investing in general. People who invest in Bitcoin have had amazing returns. People have also lost fortunes in Bitcoin. If you want to just safe investment, go buy bonds, you’ll earn a 4% return and you’ll be fine. But if you want to take a risk, you have to be comfortable with the loss. So I really think you need to figure out where you want to fall on this risk continuum because if you’re comfortable with risk and loss, go flip houses. I think that’s probably the right answer for you because you seem to not want to deal with tenants. In my opinion, Burr is a lower risk strategy than flipping, and so if you instead want to focus on not taking big losses and can warm up to the idea of having tenants, then I would say bur,
Because with a bur, you don’t have the same time pressure as a flip. You still want to do it as quickly as possible, but if you finish your renovation at a bad time to sell, you just keep it and rent it out. You lose that pressure for disposition. So I think you need to sort of make a decision here because you can’t have it all.

Henry:
Yeah, I agree. And you need to figure out are you looking for short-term money or long-term money, right? If you want to do a fix and flip, you’ll get money faster, right? You’ll get paid hopefully in six to eight months. A bur is probably going to take you longer. You’ll pull out some of your cash, but the likelihood of you finding a deal that pencils as a burr in a short term timeframe, that’s going to allow you to pull all of your cash back out and some additional profit. That’s a tough sell right now.
Can it be done? Yeah. Yes, it can be done, but it takes work. You’re going to have to be searching for off market deals or putting in a ton of extremely low offers on our market deals, and it’s just going to take a long time to find that. So it sounds like you need to A figure out what kind of risk reward you want, and B, when is that timeframe that you’re looking to get paid? Because a burr is going to take a longer period of time. A flip can be a whole lot shorter, but a flip is going to be a bit riskier, so you’ve got some decisions to make for sure.

Dave:
Honestly, once you figure out the goal, I know it sounds boring and no one really wants to think about it, but I promise you it sort of just makes every question after that easy, you’re like, okay, should I buy this? You have this frame of reference that you can analyze any question through. It’s like, should I buy this deal? No, it doesn’t meet my goal. Should I buy this deal? Yes, of course. It gets you over analysis paralysis, it gets you over that overwhelm feeling, so just take the time and think through what you really want to accomplish here.

Henry:
Alright, well, we’ve got time for one more question, but before we get there, we’ve got to take a quick break. All right. We are back on the BiggerPockets podcast answering your questions from the forums, and we’ve got one more question and it comes from an investor named James in Seattle. James says he’s looking to buy his first house hack in the Seattle area and is finding it incredibly hard to find a property that will cashflow positive when he moves out. He says, I’ve had agents and lenders tell me that’s a pretty great deal when I would be getting negative $1,400 a month in cashflow. How am I supposed to continue buying a house hack every year or two if I’m racking up more and more payments? Am I supposed to buy the house and hope that I can eventually rent and refinance, help me make a deal in this expensive market?

Dave:
Well, first of all, I love that this comes from someone named James in Seattle. I love the idea of this just being James Dnar submitting questions to us many. What’s this whole cashflow thing?

Henry:
There’s no juice in the cashflow, guys.

Dave:
There’s no juice, but seriously, James, I live in the Seattle area and I sympathize. My short answer to this question is, this does not sound like a good deal. I wouldn’t do it if I were you. I don’t know what else to say. Henry and I actually recorded a show last week talking about house hacking popular topic five, 10 years ago. There was almost no situation or no market. I would advise against house hacking. It was just a no-brainer. Check the box, go do it. But in the expensive, the truly expensive markets in the country right now, these are Seattle, California, New York, Austin, Miami, these kinds of markets, it does not make sense. I have literally done the math and it does not make sense to buy house hacks. I know BiggerPockets is partially responsible for this mindset where we’ve been telling people the house hack for 15 years
And still for 80% of the population. That is true, but if you’re in one of these uber expensive markets, it doesn’t make sense. You have two options in my opinion. You either do heavy value add strategy, which is what I have resorted to since moving to Seattle. This is why I started flipping houses for the first time because you absolutely can make money in Seattle doing that strategy or you have to invest out of state. This is why I do both. I invest out of state for cashflow and for long-term rentals. I am trying my hand. I wouldn’t say I’m a flipper yet, but I am dabbling in flipping a little bit because I do like, I enjoy real estate. I want to be doing deals where I live, and so the only way that that makes sense for me right now is to do heavy value add in the form of flipping. I’m also starting to look at value add rental properties like buying stuff that really needs a lot of work and doing that, but house hacking here, it just doesn’t work. It doesn’t make sense right now.

Henry:
Here’s the framework that I kind of look at in terms of should you house hack or not. If you’re looking at house hack deals, especially just consider a duplex. If you’re living in a place where you’re looking at a duplex and if you buy it, live in it, rent out the other unit, and your remaining mortgage payment is still as much as it would cost you just to go rent a place by yourself, you should not house hack. It’s not going to

Dave:
Work well. I wish rent here for a single bedroom was only 1400 bucks a month. It’s probably more than that, but you can rent a nice apartment in Seattle for two grand, 2,500 bucks a month, especially in the neighborhoods that James is talking about. So it’s a lot of risk and a lot of work and a lot of capital, frankly, that if you’re going to go even listed some neighborhoods here, we won’t read them to you, but you’re still going to have to, if you’re putting 20% down on these properties is over a hundred grand for sure. If I were me, I would rent and I would go find a duplex in a growing city in the Midwest and just bite the bullet. It’s not that bad. I do it and everyone can figure it out. We put out a lot of resources on BiggerPockets about how you can do this as well.
I offer this freely on biggerpockets.com/resources. I made a free calculator. It’s a house hack rent or buy calculator. Go play around with it. It will confirm what I’ve said and anyone else who’s thinking about these different options, just go play around with it. You will see that you’re putting 80, $90,000 into this deal. Even if you put that in a bond, you’re going to be making more money than this house hack deal. You should just think about the opportunity costs that you’re giving up with this. I know we talk about house hacking all the time. It does make sense, but there are situations where it doesn’t make sense. This is why no matter what you do, you have to just run the numbers and see for yourself if the math pencils out, and for most people in Seattle or LA or New York or Miami, it just doesn’t pencil right now and it’s frustrating, but there are other ways that you can win as an investor, so go focus on those.

Henry:
Absolutely. You’re right. It is our fault. We talk about house hacking all the time. It is amazing. Yeah, that’s

Dave:
Awesome. Blame us,

Henry:
But we’re being honest with you about what situations it does work and what situations it doesn’t work. So if you want to learn more about house hacking, you can check out a couple of previous episodes that Dave and I did, number 1236 from a couple of weeks ago that was all about how to analyze these specific rent versus buy decisions that we talked about today. Or you can check out episode 1182 where I talked about several ways you can add value to your house hacks and your rental properties to help you be more profitable,

Dave:
And if you want to learn how to add value in Seattle specifically, we’re literally doing a value add conference in Seattle because this is such an important question. This is a question, James, that we hear all the time, and that’s why James Dard one of the best value add investors out there and who does it in Seattle makes more money than Henry and I combined is teaching us how to do this. So it’s March 28th. You can get your ticket at biggerpockets.com/seattle. Henry and I will both be there. Henry will be teaching. I’ll be in attendance learning and hope to see you guys there as well. I personally am going to go start enjoying the benefits of indoor heating and shed a couple layers. But thank you all so much for listening to this episode of the BiggerPockets Podcast. We’ll see you next time.

 

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How the Betterment Mortgage Rate Discount Works

As noted, to get the discount you need to use the special link from the Betterment website.

And you must do so by December 31st, 2026 unless it gets extended further beyond that date.

You also need to have at least $100,000 in assets on the Betterment platform to be eligible for the discount.

If applying with a co-borrower, your combined household balance may be used to meet the $100,000 requirement.

The $100,00 can be a combination of cash and investments, so there’s no specific security type required.

From there, you can get the discount if you’re buying a home (no mortgage refinance discounts here).

The property must be your primary residence, meaning the one you live in most of the year, and a single-family, detached home. Presumably no condos!

No second homes (vacation properties) or investment properties are eligible either.

In addition, you need to take out either an FHA loan or a conventional loan, aka those backed by Fannie Mae or Freddie Mac.

It appears VA loans, USDA loans, and jumbo loans are not eligible for this mortgage rate promotion.

Finally, the loan type must be a 30-year fixed rate mortgage. Fortunately most home buyers choose that particular loan product.

But it means you can’t get the discount on a 15-year fixed mortgage, or an adjustable-rate mortgage, such as a 7/6 ARM.

What Is the Mortgage Rate Discount Based On?

I dug into the fine print and discovered that the companies are using the national average mortgage rate as published by Mortgage News Daily each day.

At last glance, this rate was 6.04% for a 30-year fixed mortgage. Whether that means you get a rate of 5.29% remains to be seen.

The promotion says “up to a 0.75% interest rate discount.” In other words, it might be lower than that.

It also says the discount assumes a $500,000 loan amount, 780 FICO score and 75% loan-to-value ratio (LTV).

My guess is borrowers with less vanilla scenarios, whether it’s a smaller down payment and/or a lower FICO score may receive a smaller rate discount.

So you’ll need to go through the process to determine what the exact discount is based on your particular loan scenario.

You do appear to get a $500 closing cost credit as well, which happens to match the Robinhood Sage Home Loans discount exactly.

In other words, Betterment and Rate seems to be following in the footsteps of their competitors here.

Is This a Good Deal?

Whenever I come across rate discounts, I ask this question. Is it a good deal?

The million-dollar answer to that question is that it depends on the final rate and closing costs and what you can get elsewhere.

For example, say Betterment and Rate offer 0.75% off my rate and give me a $500 closing cost credit.

And that gets me a 30-year fixed at 5.50% with say $2,500 in fees. Remember, there will likely still be fees, even if they are slightly discounted.

What if a different bank, lender, or mortgage broker can offer me a rate of 5.75% with no fees, or 5.50% with only $1,000 in fees?

Then it won’t matter that I received a “discount” right? It’ll mean I’m paying more versus other, superior options.

In other words, you still need to shop around and see what else is out there. They might turn out to have the best deal, but they might not.

Only way to know for sure is to put in the time to speak with multiple lenders before you proceed to lock in a rate.

Colin Robertson
Latest posts by Colin Robertson (see all)

Kroger: Free 5oz Greek God Yoghurt After Ibotta Rebate (Limit 5)


The Offer

  • Kroger has 5oz greek god yoghurt for $1. Ibotta is offering a $1 rebate on these, limit 5. 

Our Verdict

Sometimes the Ibotta limit will reset every day, meaning you can do the deal several times (if you do the deal too late in the day it’ll reset two days later). Free is free. 

Costco Stock Is Soaring, but Is It Getting Ahead of Itself?


Costco Wholesale (COST 0.26%) delivered a stellar January sales report, with digital sales rising notably. The company has been building out a robust e-commerce platform for years, and it is starting to show. Costco said digitally enabled sales grew 34% year over year in January — a notable improvement from previous weeks.

After a recent pullback, the stock is now up about 15% year to date. The recent sales report builds on the strength seen in the last quarter, with consumers beginning to pick up spending on big-ticket items such as jewelry and appliances. Investors like to see this because these pricier items generally generate higher margins than food and sundries.

Image source: Getty Images.

However, the stock’s run raises concerns around its valuation. The shares are now trading at a price-to-earnings (P/E) multiple of 53. Even using forward earnings estimates, the stock trades at an expensive P/E of 49.

Usually, investors need to see much higher growth to justify this valuation level. Despite Costco’s strong digital sales performance, total net sales are still growing in the single-digit range — 9% year over year for January, and 8% in the fiscal first quarter ending Nov. 23.

Earnings per share have grown at an annualized rate of 11% over the past three years, and analysts are modeling long-term earnings growth of about 9%. That is very light growth for a stock priced around 50 times earnings. Several Magnificent Seven companies, in addition to consumer staples like Coca-Cola and Procter & Gamble, are trading at lower P/Es relative to earnings growth, offering investors better value for their money.

The stock is priced for flawless execution, which Costco excels at, but also for robust earnings growth, which isn’t happening. Investors should be cautious about buying shares at these levels, as stocks can’t outpace the business’s long-term growth. It might be wise to keep Costco on a watch list and consider buying it at a lower valuation.

John Ballard has no position in any of the stocks mentioned. The Motley Fool has positions in and recommends Costco Wholesale. The Motley Fool has a disclosure policy.

Leaders, Consider Pausing Before Acting on Employee Feedback


Acting on employee feedback is a key means for leaders to grow and improve. Yet knowing what to do with this feedback can be complicated: Should you implement changes right away so that employees feel heard? Should you acknowledge these changes, or will that make you seem weak?



Simply Explaining Financial Questions EVERYONE Has



These are some of the most common financial questions I see people have, and I try to explain them as simply as possible. I hope you learn something and I hope you enjoy!

My complete 60+ page manipulation guide on how to spot and defend manipulation in everyday life:
👉

👜 Business Mail: everythingprofessor@gmail.com

Watch on Spotify:

—————————————————————————————

Timestamps:
0:00 Why is $1 ≠ £1 ≠ ¥1
1:40 Why Every Country Is in Debt & Who They Owe
3:14 Why Can’t We Just Print More Money
4:39 What Is Bitcoin?
6:11 What If Inflation Goes Negative
7:40 Who Really Pays the Tariffs
9:00 Why Nobody Can Afford a Home Anymore
10:34 Difference Between Trading and Investing
12:11 How Rich People Use Debt to Get Richer
13:34 How Money Laundering Works

source

Rakuten Offering 97% Cash Back or 97X Amex/Bilt Points for NordVPN Purchase


Rakuten Offer for NordVPN

🔃 Update: Rakuten now offering 97X for NordVPN.


If you often connect to unsecure W-Fi connections while traveling, then using virtual private network (VPN) software is a must so you can protect yourself. VPN masks your device’s IP address and encrypts your data by routing it through servers in other countries or states. This lets you securely browse the internet, or just get work done. VPN is also useful if you’re abroad and want to access streaming services such as ESPN+, Hulu etc. which might not be available in every country.

Rakuten is now offering 100% cash back or 100X Membership Rewards points for NordVPN, which makes it free and possibly even give you a small profit based on your valuation of Amex points.

Offer Details

Get 100X Membership Rewards points or 100% of your purchase back when you make a purchase at NordVPN. Looks like you can buy a 2 year plan and earn 8,343 points.

You can see the offer here. 

Important Terms

  • Cash Back is only available to new NordVPN customers.
  • Cash Back can only be earned on the initial sign-up.
  • Limited to one per member.
  • Cash Back is earned only on the NordVPN portion of a bundled subscription.
  • Cash Back is not available on NordPass, NordLocker, Incogni and Dedicated IP subscriptions, NordLayer, B2B orders or refunded orders.

Guru’s Wrap-up

This can be a good deal for those who are looking for a VPN service. I have never used NordVPN myself, so please let me know in the comments if you have any experience with it and how it compares to other VPNs.

If you don’t have a Rakuten account, you can sign up here.

Best Health Professional Student Loans And Rates


Key Points

  • Students looking for health profession school loans have two options: Federal Direct Loans and private student loans.
  • New caps on federal student loans may lead more students to private loans.
  • Private student loans can be a good choice for highly qualified borrowers.

If you’re going to graduate school to become a health professional, the borrowing landscape has changed. The reason is that most health-related graduate degrees are considered graduate school, not professional school. Professional school is limited to medicine, pharmacy, optometry, podiatry, clinical psychology, and chiropractic medicine.

Meanwhile, fields like nursing, physician assistants, physical therapy, occupational therapy, and audiology are health professional graduate fields.

The trouble with graduate health programs (and graduate school in general) is there are not a lot of “financial aid” options available beyond student loans. Before you dive into health professional student loans, make sure you do understand your options – both how you’re going to pay for school and what aid may be available.

You should also do a lot of research on what type of health you’re interested in and what salaries look like, so you understand whether getting a graduate degree is worth it. Because, sadly, only 63% of health science graduate degrees pay off financially.

The best degrees come in nursing, medical assistants, and clinical medical sciences. The worst include mental and social health services, public health, and dietetics and clinical nutrition. 

If you already know most of your options and are simply looking to find the best private student loans, check out Credible and compare your options in 2 minutes with no credit check. Try Credible here.

Let’s dive in.

The Order Of Operation To Pay For Health Professional School

There is a smart order of operations on how to pay for a graduate degree in health sciences, and it doesn’t start with student loans. Before you ever embark on a health program, you need to consider the ROI (return on investment) of your education.

The goal of an advanced degree should be to move your career (and earnings potential) forward. 

In that case, you need to asses how much you’d potentially pay out of pocket (hopefully next to nothing) given your salary.

When it comes to calculating the ROI of going to college, it’s all about how much you’re going to spend, and how much debt you’re going to take on. Follow this chart from best to worst to get an idea of how to pay for your graduate school program.

Scholarships and Grants

Direct Student Loans

Private Student Loans

It’s always important to analyze what you need for your own situation. But we suggest starting your research by going through different scholarships and grants which might be available through your state or college directly.

Scholarships and Grants

The first place to start when paying for graduate school is scholarships and grants to pay for college. Scholarships and grants work a little different on the graduate level.

There are no Pell grants or other federal student aid for graduate school (except for loans).

If you want to find scholarships and grants, you have to search for them. Some states are offering special programs and grants to help pay for some health science degrees if you commit to working in shortage areas.

If you don’t know where to start, talk to your graduate admissions counselor and your department to see what might be available.

Best Student Loans For Health Professional Graduate School

Once you get to looking at student loans, there’s another order of operations to follow. You should start with Direct Student Loans, then consider private loans.

Graduate Direct Student Loans

Graduate direct student loans are the best federal student loans a graduate borrower is going to get. To get a federal student loan, you need to apply for the FAFSA, which is the Free Application For Federal Student Aid. Once you complete the application, your school’s financial aid office will let you know about your Federal student loan options.

Health science students can borrow up to $20,500 per year, and $100,000 in aggregate. Health science programs are considered graduate school as part of the new OBBBA loan limits.

Note: It’s important to remember that many of these programs are only 2 year programs. That means your effective limit would be $41,000 – not $100,000. 

Interest will accrue on these loans while you’re in school and you’ll have to start making payments 6 months after graduation. That’s why after years of advising students and families on which loan is best for them, if you have questions while doing research, you can reach out to The College Investor if you want to get specific advice or read my guide on how to find the best student loans.

The great thing about federal loans is that they offer a wide range of benefits: income-driven repayment and loan forgiveness. Loan forgiveness for public service can be especially helpful if you work for the local, state, or federal government – which many health professionals do!

Private Graduate Student Loans

Sadly, many health professionals cannot solely rely on federal loans to pay for the cost of college because of the graduate loan limits.

Either they exhaust federal loan limits due to their school’s cost, they need more funds to cover living expenses while attending school, or they need more time to complete their education (which increases cost). 

Others may find more value in taking on private loans given their excellent credit and ability to repay. In this case, private student loans may be a cheaper alternative due to low interest rates and excellent borrower programs.

We recommend borrowers shop and compare the best private student loans. We love Credible for a few reasons. They allow you to see your options in minutes with no credit check. The compare most of the major lenders. And they make the process of getting a private loan super easy. 

Here are three other options to consider:

Abe Healthcare Professional Student Loans

Abe Student Loans offers private student loans to a undergraduate, graduate, and post-bachelor graduate certificate students, with flexible repayment options and no origination, late payment, or forbearance fees. Students can use the funds from an Abe student loan to cover the cost of expenses such as tuition, room and board, books and supplies, transportation, and other personal expenses during their time at school.

Read our full Abe Student Loans review here.

Abe℠ Student Loan Details

Product Name

Abe℠ Student Loans

Min Loan Amount

$1,000⁴

Max Loan Amount

Cost of Attendance⁴

Variable APR

3.53% – 15.91% APR¹ ²

Fixed APR

2.75% – 15.61% APR¹ ²

Loan Terms

5, 7, 10, 15, & 20 years⁵

Cosigner Required

No

Abe student loans logo

GET A QUOTE

Ascent Health Professional Student Loans

Ascent Student Loans is a solid choice as a private lender – as they offer great graduate student loans. They also offer a solid loan amount range from $2,001 – $400,000*, competitive rates, and easy repayment terms.

They offer loans starting at just $2,001* minimum, and they offer 48 month loan deferment while in school, and a grade period to postpone full principal and interest payments up to 36-months after graduation, up to 9-months after leaving the program, or otherwise dropping to less-than-half-time enrollment.

Read our full Ascent Student Loans review here.

Ascent Student Loans

Product Name

Ascent Health Professional Loan

Min Loan Amount

$2,001

Max Loan Amount

$400,000

Variable APR

4.42% -15.38% APR

Fixed APR

3.49% – 15.46% APR

Loan Terms

5, 7, 10, 12 15, or 20 years

Promotions

None

Ascent Student Loans For Grad School

GET A QUOTE

Sallie Mae Health Professional Student Loans

Sallie Mae is probably one of the most well-known lenders on this list. They are the nation’s largest private student loan lender by loan volume. As a result, they also offer some of the most competitive health professional loans out there.

You can take out Sallie Mae student loans starting at just $1,000 (which is one of the lowest) and can borrow up to the total cost of education². Sallie Mae has a variety of repayment plans to select from, they offer 48 months of deferment during your residency and fellowship⁴, and 12-months of interest-only payments after your grace period⁵.

Read our full Sallie Mae review here.

Sallie Mae Student Loans

Product Name

Sallie Mae Law School Loan

Min Loan Amount

$1,000

Max Loan Amount

Up to 100% of the school-certified expenses²

Variable APR

3.75% to 13.38% APR¹

Fixed APR

2.89%-14.99% APR¹

Loan Terms

10 or 15 years

Promotions

None

Sallie Mae

GET A QUOTE

Final Thoughts

As you can see, there are several options to navigate when it comes to paying for a health professional graduate school programs. And you don’t need to totally rely on student loans (though it’s likely you will).

Sadly, many graduate health professionals do need to rely on both federal and private loans, simply due to the costs.

Just make sure that you really understand the ROI on your education before you borrow too much.

FAQs

What credit score is needed for private health professional graduate school loans?

Each lender has different standards for private health graduate school loans. However, most private student loans will require a minimum credit score of 680. The best rates will be offered to borrowers with credit scores above 780.

Can I pay interest while in school to reduce debt?

Yes! If you pay interest on your grdaute school loans while in school, it will help lower the long term costs of the loan. However, we don’t recommend it, especially if you’re going to pursue loan forgiveness.

Are student loan payments tax-deductible?

The interest portion of your student loan payments are tax deductible via the student loan interest deduction.

Are there state based graduate loan programs?

Yes, several states offer graduate loans via their state-based non-profit lenders.

Disclosures

Abe Student Loans
Before applying for a private student loan, DR Bank and Monogram LLC recommend exhausting all financial aid alternatives including grants, scholarships, and federal student loans.

The AbeSM student loan is made by DR Bank, Member FDIC (“Lender”). All loans are subject to individual approval and adherence to Lender’s underwriting guidelines. Program restrictions and other terms and conditions apply. LENDER AND MONOGRAM LLC EACH RESERVES THE RIGHT TO MODIFY OR DISCONTINUE PRODUCTS AND BENEFITS AT ANY TIME WITHOUT NOTICE. TERMS, CONDITIONS AND RATES ARE SUBJECT TO CHANGE AT ANY TIME WITHOUT NOTICE.

* In order to estimate your available rates and loan options, with your authorization, DR Bank will initiate a soft credit inquiry. Soft credit inquiries do not affect your credit. Any rates and loan options offered to you are estimates only.

1Interest rates and APRs (Annual Percentage Rates): Interest rates and APRs (Annual Percentage Rates) depend upon (1) the student’s and cosigner’s (if applicable) credit histories, (2) the repayment option and repayment term selected, (3) the expected number of years in deferment, (4) the requested loan amount and (5) other information provided on the online loan application Rates and terms are effective as of 02/01/2026. The variable interest rate for each calendar month is calculated by adding the 30-Day Average Secured Overnight Financing Rate (“SOFR”) index plus a fixed margin assigned to each loan. The current SOFR index, published on the website of the Federal Reserve Bank of New York, is 3.75% as of 02/01/2026. The applicable index or margin for variable rate loans may change over time and result in a different APR than shown. The fixed rate assigned to a loan will never change except as required by law or if you request and qualify for an interest rate discount, or receive In-School Default Protection (see footnote 3). APRs displayed as a range: APRs assume a $10,000 loan with one disbursement. The low APRs assume a 7-year term, and the Interest-Only Repayment option with payments beginning 30-60 days after the disbursement via auto pay (see footnote 2). The high APRs assume a 5-year term with the Interest-Only Repayment option, a 31-month deferment period, and a six-month grace period before entering repayment.

2Autopay Discount: Earn a 0.25% interest rate reduction for making automatic payments from a bank account (“auto pay discount”) by completing the direct debit form accessible on the Servicer’s website. The auto pay discount is in addition to other discounts. The auto pay discount will be applied after the Servicer validates your bank account information. Automatic payments and the associated discount will be temporarily discontinued (1) if you elect to stop automatic deduction of payments and (2) during periods when you are not required to make payments. The discount will be permanently discontinued in the event three automatic deductions are returned by the financial institution for any reason.

3 In-school Default Protection: Interest Only or Flat Payment Repayment loans that reach at least 90 days delinquent during an in-school deferment period will automatically transition to the Full Deferment Repayment option. Under these circumstances, the interest rate on an original Interest Only loan will increase by one percentage point (1.00%) and the interest rate on an original Flat Payment Repayment loan will increase by one quarter of one percentage point (0.25%). Credit reporting prior to the transition of a loan to the Full Deferment Repayment option will remain on your record. Any unpaid accrued interest at the end of an in-school deferment period may be capitalized in accordance with the Credit Agreement.

4 Loan Amounts: The minimum loan amount is $1,000, except for (a) student applicants who are permanent residents of Iowa in which case the minimum loan amount is $1,001, and (b) student applicants or cosigners who are permanent residents of Massachusetts in which case the minimum loan amount is $6,001. The maximum loan amount to cover in-school expenses for each academic year is determined by the school’s cost of attendance, minus other financial aid, as certified by the school. The requested loan amount cannot cause an individual applicant’s aggregate maximum student loan debt (which includes federal and private student loans), to exceed $225,000. On a specialty graduate loan (Dental, Medical, Healthcare, Law and MBA) the loan amount cannot cause the aggregate maximum student loan debt to exceed $350,000.

5 Loan Terms: The 15- and 20- year term and Flat Payment Repayment option (paying $25 per month during in-school deferment) are only available for loan amounts of $5,000 or more. Making interest only or flat interest payments during deferment will not reduce the principal balance of the loan. Payment examples (all assume a 14-month deferment period, a six-month grace period before entering repayment, no auto pay discount, and the Interest Only Repayment option): 5-year term: $10,000 loan, one disbursement, with a 5-year repayment term (60 months) and a 9.30% APR would result in a monthly principal and interest payment of $209.04. 7-year term: $10,000 loan, one disbursement, with a 7-year repayment term (84 months) and a 6.50% APR would result in a monthly principal and interest payment of $148.49. 10-year term: $10,000 loan, one disbursement, with a 10-year repayment term (120 months) and a 6.35% APR would result in a monthly principal and interest payment of $112.76. 15-year term: $10,000 loan, one disbursement, with, a 15-year repayment term (180 months) and a 6.30% APR would result in a monthly principal and interest payment of $86.02. 20-year term: $10,000 loan, one disbursement, with, a 20-year repayment term (240 months) and an 8.38% APR would result in a monthly principal and interest payment of $86.02.

6 The student borrower has meet certain credit and other criteria, and 12 consecutive monthly principal and interest payments or lump sum payments equal to 12 monthly principal and interest payments must have been received by the Servicer during any 12-month period. While a loan is in a reduced repayment plan or while a request for a reduced payment plan is pending, borrowers are not eligible to apply for cosigner release.

7 The grace period is six months. The grace period begins on the earlier of the date (a) the student borrower graduates, (b) the student borrower ceases to be enrolled, or (c) that is 60 months from the first disbursement date, but in no case, earlier than six months after the first disbursement date. The immediate repayment option does not have a grace period.

Ascent Student Loans

*Ascent’s undergraduate and graduate student loans are funded by Bank of Lake Mills or DR Bank, each Member FDIC. Loan products may not be available in certain jurisdictions. Certain restrictions, limitations, terms and conditions may apply for Ascent’s Terms and Conditions please visit AscentFunding.com/Ts&Cs. 

Annual Percentage Rates (APRs) displayed are effective as of 2/1/2026 and reflect an Automatic Payment Discount (ACH). The ACH discount consists of 0.25% on credit-based college student loans submitted prior to 6/1/2025, a 0.5% discount for on credit-based college student loans submitted on or after 6/1/2025 and a 1.00% discount on outcomes-based loans when you enroll in automatic payments. Loans subject to individual approval, restrictions, and conditions apply. Loan features and information advertised are intended for college student loans and are subject to change at any time.

The final amount approved depends on the borrower’s credit history, verifiable cost of attendance as certified by an eligible school and is subject to credit approval and verification of application information. Lowest interest rates require full principal and interest (Immediate) payments, the shortest loan term, a cosigner, and are only available for our most creditworthy applicants and cosigners with the highest average credit scores. Actual APR offered may be higher or lower than the examples above, based on the amount of time you spend in school and any grace period you have before repayment begins. Variable rates may increase after consummation.1% Cash Back Graduation Reward subject to terms and conditions. For details on Ascent borrower benefits, visit AscentFunding.com/BorrowerBenefits. Ascent applicants and borrowers that agree to the AscentUP Terms of Service and Privacy Policy, as well as students associated with an Ascent parent loan application, have access to the AscentUP platform.

The following examples for a $10,000 loan show a 48-month in-school period plus 9 months of grace prior to a full repayment term for 60-months (variable rate), with examples of (i) Interest Only payments, (ii) $25 Minimum payments, (iii) Deferred repayment, and (iv) Immediate Repayment options.

Interest Only Repayment: 6.17% APR, with 57 payments of $51.42 while in-school/grace, 60 payments of $194.14 during the repayment term, and a total cost of $14,580.18.

$25 Minimum Payment: 6.76% APR, with 57 payments of $25.00 while in-school/grace, 60 payments of $238.17 during the repayment term, and a total cost of $15,715.33.

Deferred Repayment: 6.94%, with no payment while in-school/grace, 60 payments of $274.33 during the repayment term, and a total cost of $16,442.48.

Immediate Repayment: 4.17% APR, with 60 payments of $184.94, and a total cost of $11,096.48. 

The following examples for a $10,000 loan show a 48-month in-school period plus 9 months of grace prior to a full repayment term for 180-months (highest variable rate), with examples of (i) Interest Only payments, (ii) $25 Minimum payments, (iii) Deferred repayment, and (iv) Immediate Repayment options.

Interest Only Repayment: 14.58% APR, with 57 payments of $121.42 while in-school/grace, 180 payments of $137.06 during the repayment term, and a total cost of $31,592.42.

$25 Minimum Payment: 13.51% APR, with 57 payments of $25.00 while in-school/grace, 180 payments of $220.02 during the repayment term, and a total cost of $41,030.37.

Deferred Repayment: 14.34%, with no payment while in-school/grace, 180 payments of $266.71 during the repayment term, and a total cost of $47,302.81.

Immediate Repayment: 14.33% APR, with 60 payments of $135.38, and a total cost of $24,369.53.

Sallie Mae

¹Rates displayed are for graduate school student loans:

Lowest rates shown include the auto debit discount: Additional information regarding the auto debit discount: Advertised APRs for undergraduate students assume a $10,000 loan to a student who attends school for 4 years and has no prior Sallie Mae-serviced loans. Interest rates for variable rate loans may increase or decrease over the life of the loan based on changes to the 30-day Average Secured Overnight Financing Rate (SOFR) rounded up to the nearest one-eighth of one percent. Advertised variable rates are the starting range of rates and may vary outside of that range over the life of the loan. Interest is charged starting when funds are sent to the school. With the Fixed and Deferred Repayment Options, the interest rate is higher than with the Interest Repayment Option and Unpaid Interest is added to the loan’s Current Principal at the end of the grace/separation period. To receive a 0.25 percentage point interest rate discount, the borrower or cosigner must enroll in auto debit through Sallie Mae. The discount applies only during active repayment for as long as the Current Amount Due or Designated Amount is successfully withdrawn from the authorized bank account each month. It may be suspended during forbearance or deferment. *These rates will be effective 1/26/2026.

Terms:

Examples of typical costs for a $10,000 Smart Option Student Loan with the most common fixed rate, fixed repayment option, 6-month separation period, and two disbursements: For a borrower with no prior loans and a 4-year in-school period, it works out to a 10.28% fixed APR, 51 payments of $25.00, 119 payments of $182.67 and one payment of $121.71, for a Total Loan Cost of $23,134.44. For a borrower with $20,000 in prior loans and a 2-year in-school period, it works out to a 10.78% fixed APR, 27 payments of $25.00, 179 payments of $132.53 and one payment of $40.35 for a total loan cost of $24,438.22. Loans that are subject to a $50 minimum principal and interest payment amount may receive a loan term that is less than 10 years.

² For applications submitted directly to Sallie Mae, loan amount cannot exceed the cost of attendance less financial aid received, as certified by the school. Applications submitted to Sallie Mae through a partner website may be subjected to a lower maximum loan request amount. Miscellaneous personal expenses (such as a laptop) may be included in the cost of attendance for students enrolled at least half-time.

⁴ To apply for this deferment, customers and an official from the internship, clerkship, fellowship, or residency program must complete and submit a deferment form  to us for consideration. If approved, deferment periods are issued in up to 12-month increments. Customers can apply for and receive a maximum of four 12-month deferment periods. Interest is charged during the deferment period and Unpaid Interest may be added to the Current Principal at the end of each deferment period, which will increase the Total Loan Cost.

⁵ GRP allows interest-only payments for the initial 12-month period of repayment when the loan would normally begin requiring full principal and interest payments or during the 12-month period after GRP request is granted, whichever is later. At the time of GRP request, the loan must be current. The borrower may request GRP only during the six billing periods immediately preceding and the twelve billing periods immediately after the loan would normally begin requiring full principal and interest payments. GRP does not extend the loan term. If approved for GRP, the Current Amount Due that is required to be paid each month after the GRP ends will be higher than it otherwise would have been without GRP, and the total loan cost will increase.

Editor: Colin Graves

The post Best Health Professional Student Loans And Rates appeared first on The College Investor.

Competition Bureau expands real estate sector probe to include Vancouver board




The Competition Bureau says it has obtained a court order to expand its ongoing investigation into potential anti-competitive conduct in Canada’s real estate sector to include Greater Vancouver Realtors.